Dinner: Japanese Beef and Vegetable Stew

SukiyakiThe term comfort food might have been coined for this bowl of rich, home-style broth surrounding thinly cut beef and a selection of Asian vegetables. The traditional accompaniment of beaten egg makes a silky dipping sauce.

Ingredients

1 (3/4-pound) piece center-cut beef tenderloin
2 (1 3/4 ounce) skeins very thin bean thread noodles (also known as cellophane, glass, or mung-bean vermicelli)
1 (2- to 3-pound) head Napa cabbage
1/2 of a (14- to 16-ounce) package firm tofu (halve lengthwise), rinsed and drained
6 to 8 ounces fresh enoki mushrooms, trimmed
3 1/4 cups water
3/4 cup soy sauce (preferably naturally brewed), or to taste
2/3 cup mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1 ounce beef suet
4 negi (Japanese leeks) or 1 bunch large scallions, white and pale green parts only, cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces
8 large fresh shiitake mushrooms (6 ounces total), stems discarded and caps halved
1/4 pound Japanese greens, such as chrysanthemum (sometimes labeled "shungiku"), mizuna, or watercress, cut into 3-inch pieces (4 cups)
4 large eggs (optional)
Special equipment : a deep 12-inch heavy skillet (3 1/2-quart capacity)

Instructions

Wrap beef tenderloin in plastic wrap and freeze until firm but not frozen solid, about 45 minutes. Discard plastic wrap, then slice beef across the grain with a sharp knife into very thin slices (less than 1/8 inch thick). Arrange slices in 1 layer on a plate and chill, covered, until ready to use.
Cover noodles with cold water by 2 inches in a large bowl and let stand until softened, at least 15 minutes, then drain in a colander and transfer to a bowl.
Quarter cabbage lengthwise and reserve three quarters for another use. Cook remaining cabbage wedge (including core) in a large pot of boiling unsalted water, covered, 3 minutes, then drain in colander and rinse with cold water to stop cooking. Squeeze out any excess liquid with your hands, then pat dry. Transfer cabbage to a cutting board and cut out and discard core, keeping cabbage wedge intact. Cut cabbage crosswise into 2-inch pieces, keeping leaves stacked, and transfer to a plate, blotting any excess liquid.
Cut tofu into 8 (1/2-inch-thick) slices and pat dry between several layers of paper towels.
Trim spongy root ends from enoki mushrooms.
Stir together water, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar in a small bowl until sugar is dissolved.
Cook beef suet in skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until skillet bottom is coated well with fat, about 3 minutes, then discard solids with a slotted spoon. Add negi and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Add soy sauce mixture, then arrange noodles evenly on top. Arrange cabbage, tofu, and shiitake mushrooms on top of noodles. Divide enoki into small clusters and tuck in and around vegetables, leaving cap ends protruding. Arrange greens evenly on top and bring liquid just to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and gently simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and arrange raw beef slices in 1 layer on top of greens (some slices will overlap), then cover again. Let stand off heat until meat is cooked rare to medium-rare, 5 to 10 minutes.
Serve sukiyaki in shallow bowls. If desired, beat eggs (1 per guest) in separate small bowls to serve as a dipping sauce.

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